May 2020 Dogliani - Monforte d'Alba without encountering a single car.
Full Covid lockdown, wine shop open intermittently, shipments to manage, home deliveries. My category was certainly one of the luckiest in commerce: I could work in the shop or from home, but above all I could go out and visit producers! And what better occasion to do so than on a Friday in mid-May, with the Langa waking up, sunshine, warmth... after all, this lockdown isn't so bad, is it!?!
I arrive in Monforte, just outside the village, on the road leading towards Roddino and Serralunga d'Alba. Waiting for me is Massimo Benevelli, who, during a pandemic, welcomes me into the cellar, setting up a tasting table that's almost regal (yes, with a capital R).
Massimo impressed me immediately with his humility, gentle, kind, almost shy and introverted manner. This is what made me reflect: I wasn't in front of a salesperson, I wasn't in front of a winery structured for hospitality, but I was dealing with a true artisan, or, as Massimo himself defines himself on the label, a farmer.
Before the actual tasting, we took a tour of the cellar, during which Massimo explained to me which wines he produces, where the grapes are grown, and how they are vinified.
All the vineyards are located on the Monforte side that faces Serralunga d'Alba: Le Coste di Monforte, Mosconi, and Ravera di Monforte. The latter is the historic Benevelli family vineyard, with vines reaching 50 years of age. The agriculture is sustainable, without the use of herbicides, chemical fertilizers, or systemic treatments. Visiting the cellar, one thing is immediately noticeable: only stainless steel tanks for fermentations and wooden barrels of varying sizes. Massimo explains that all fermentations are spontaneous, and the entire process leading to the final bottle is done with minimal intervention.
Arriving at the tasting table, I was amazed: cleanliness, substance, complexity, elegance, and a strong, very strong identity soul of Monforte... Nothing is missing. How is it possible that so little has been heard about this company?
The three Barolos are all vinified in the same way to allow us to appreciate the peculiar differences of their various terroirs of origin.
Fermentations take place in stainless steel with a submerged cap, with a maceration of about 30/40 days depending on the vintage. As for aging, in the 2016 vintage Massimo only used large barrels for Le Coste and Ravera, while Mosconi, due to low production, was aged in tonneau. Today, however, all Barolos are aged exclusively in large barrels.
The Langhe Nebbiolo ferments in stainless steel with a floating cap, as a lighter sip is desired, which is why aging is also divided between stainless steel, for the portion from Le Coste di Monforte, and large barrels / 500-liter tonneaux for the part from Ravera di Monforte.
Barbera d'Alba comes from the Bricco del Pilone vineyard, a small plot adjacent to the Ravera di Monforte vineyards; it ferments in stainless steel with a submerged cap and a maceration of about 10 days, and ages for 10 months in large barrels.
Today we are no longer just client and producer: a beautiful friendship has been born with Massimo and his wife Denise, a stage for evenings, tastings, and discussions.
What I love about Massimo's wines is that they are always consistent with the vintage and at the same time are one of his most beautiful expressions.
Whether you are a connoisseur or curious, a master of wine or a novice, I recommend you taste them because this is the right time to do so!
